This post covers travel from Annapolis MD to Croton-on-Hudson NY via Delaware City DE, Cape May NJ, Atlantic City NJ, and Manasquan Inlet NJ.
April 23, Yacht Basin Co., Annapolis MD to Delaware City Marina, Delaware City DE (total traveled: 74.4SM). We loved our time in Annapolis. We planned an early morning departure to time currents through the Chesapeake and Delaware (C&D) Canal. Overall a calm day on the water, with little to no traffic in the canal. Slightly sporty water turning north into the Delaware River towards the marina from the canal, but this segment lasted maybe 10 minutes. Rob normally does our engine maintenance. At Delaware City Marina, he gave himself a break and paid to have the work done.
April 26, Delaware City DE to Two Mile Landing Marina, Cape May NJ (total traveled: 70.5SM). At 4PM daily, the Delaware City marina hosts a meeting to review the next-day NOAA current, wind, and fetch forecasts for the cruise to Cape May (https://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/ofs/dbofs/dbofs.html). Friday, April 26, was determined to be the optimal day: low wind speeds with no fetch, and current pushing from the start and continuing most of the way. At 5AM, in nautical twilight, we were the first of several boats to cast lines. A good start to the day.
Two miles in, the engine overheat alarm came on. Rob immediately reduced speed, opened the seacock that the mechanic left closed when servicing the engine (the culprit), turned the cabin heater ON, and opened the engine room. Slowly, sometimes 0.5-1.0 kts against the current, we limped back to the marina, watching the other Looper boats pass us as they proceeded to Cape May as planned. Anchoring and calling a towboat could have been an option, but by the time we approached a safe anchorage, the engine temperature was steadily dropping (a function of opening the seacock and using the cabin heater to cool the engine). A LARGE barge coming out of the C&D canal was heading directly towards us and provided momentary excitement as we headed back to the marina. Rob called the barge on the radio and thankfully they agreed to slow down and pass behind us - we had limited maneuverability given the current and our position crossing the C&D canal.
Back at the marina, the mechanic was extremely apologetic – we understand accidents happen and this was a lesson for us: check all valves after someone else works on the boat (although I think now we’re back to doing our own maintenance). (Also, Rob noted that he thought the engine was reaching temp faster than usual - a good example of why it is important to pay attention to the smallest change on your boat!) The good news of the day was that the impeller did not end up in the engine heat exchanger (verified with an electronic scope) and was easily removed and replaced. Within an hour we were back on our way to NJ. The pushing current was not as strong, and the waves picked up a bit as we entered the bay, but how pleased we were to be at Cape May that evening. Of the boats that left the marina we were the only boat staying at a marina in Cape May - the others anchored out. The day we arrived was the 1st day the marina restaurant was open for the season … dinner at the restaurant was a good way to end a long day.
April 27, Cape May NJ to Farley State Marina, Atlantic City NJ (total traveled: 45.1SM). The New Jersey Intracoastal Waterway (NJICW) is not well maintained and boats with drafts 4’ or more are encouraged to travel “on the outside” (the Atlantic Ocean). We called Boat US Cape May for local knowledge on the inside passage: the NJICW from Cape May to Avalon would be fine for our draft, at mid to rising tide. We called Boat US Atlantic City for local knowledge: you will get stuck, go on the outside if you can. That’s all we needed to hear! We planned to run on the outside in the Atlantic Ocean the next day. The wind and waves looked like it would be fairly uncomfortable but doable. For a relatively short time (5 hours) I can do fairly uncomfortable. It turned out to be exactly that.
The silver lining of Atlantic City was meeting the people who will be our Nordhavn neighbors at Harbour Towne Marina this summer!
April 28, Atlantic City NJ to Hoffman’s Marina, Manasquan Inlet NJ (total traveled: 64.5SM). As stated above, the NJICW is not well maintained and boats with drafts 4’ or more are encouraged to travel on the outside. We called Boat US Atlantic City for local knowledge on the inside passage: you will always have 6’ of water under you, no need to worry about traveling at mid to rising tide, and there are no areas of special concern. That sounded good! We planned to cruise the NJICW the next day. While we never touched ground, there were more than a few times we had <6’ under us and slowed speed as we held our breath. We do not recommend the NJICW for boats with ≥4’ draft. Some places had less than a 1’ tidal range so even traveling at a high tide would have helped little.
April 29, Manasquan Inlet to Ellis Island NYC Anchorage (total traveled: 47.2SM). The ICW ends (or begins) at Manasquan Inlet, so the only decision to be made was which day to run on the outside. Due to non-boating-related obligations, we planned to make this trip on April 30. However, when boats making the run on this day reported that the Atlantic Ocean was like glass, we decided to take advantage of ideal conditions and leave that afternoon. It was a short cruise, about 4 hours.
The waves were large but rolling (~11 second periods), which made for a smooth, enjoyable passage nearly all day. As we neared our bail-out destination, the Sandy Hook anchorage where the other boats had settled in for the night, we decided the waves and daylight were sufficient for us to continue on to the anchorage behind Ellis Island. Upon passing Sandy Hook and entering the Lower Bay, the water turned sporty and soon we noticed an anvil cloud appear over the city skyline. We monitored the weather conditions along with many passing ferries, cruise ships, sailboats, and tows coming from all different directions. By the time we made it under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge, the waters had calmed a bit, and the sky seemed brighter. How incredible it was to see the Statue of Liberty. While we couldn’t pause long, we starred as long as we could as we went by (still dodging ferries). An iconic moment on the Great Loop!!
The Ellis Island anchorage provided us with most spectacular night. The skyline, the fireworks … the choppy water all night :)! My favorite anchorage.
April 30, NYC Anchorage to Half Moon Marina, Croton-on-Hudson NY (total traveled: 37.4SM). 5AM: Up and at ‘em! A foggy morning. Water and land visibility was okay but building tops were lost in the clouds. We said goodbye to the city and marveled as the views along the Hudson River changed from sky scrapers to green and rocky cliffs. Another National Geographic day.
While we didn’t have far to travel, the swift current moved against us and we arrived at Half Moon Marina early afternoon. The New York State Canal System does not open until May 17. We decided to use the down time to go home for a week or so. See the dog, family and friends, and prepare the house for spring. Thankfully, the night before driving home my niece and her husband – SUPER Upper West Siders – took a train to meet us in Hastings-on-Croton. A short time together but we were grateful they were willing to come see us — another trip highlight!
A 10-hour drive and we were back in Michigan. Good to see family and friends, and plan for the last legs of our Great Loop adventure (Erie Canal and the Great Lakes). A bit sad, but we still have quite a bit ahead of us, and ending the Loop does not mean the end of boating. Where will we go next, and in what type of boat!? Fun thoughts to consider.
Thank you for reading our updates!
Fair winds,
Amy

Annapolis MD to Croton-on-Hudson NY
Annapolis MD to Croton-on-Hudson NY

4,518 SM traveled; 1,653 SM to go!
4,518 SM traveled; 1,653 SM to go!

Leaving Yacht Basin Co. Marina, Annapolis for Delaware City
Leaving Yacht Basin Co. Marina, Annapolis for Delaware City

Leaving Yacht Basin Co. Marina, Annapolis for Delaware City
Leaving Yacht Basin Co. Marina, Annapolis for Delaware City

Leaving Annapolis, heading north, Chesapeake Bay Bridge
Leaving Annapolis, heading north, Chesapeake Bay Bridge

Leaving Annapolis, heading north, Chesapeake Bay Bridge
Leaving Annapolis, heading north, Chesapeake Bay Bridge

Going under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge
Going under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge

On the way to Delaware City
On the way to Delaware City

On the way to Delaware City
On the way to Delaware City

The Chesapeake City Bridge - Entering the C&D Canal on the way to Delaware City
The Chesapeake City Bridge - Entering the C&D Canal on the way to Delaware City

C&D Canal Museum
C&D Canal Museum

Along the way, C&D Canal
Along the way, C&D Canal

Along the way, C&D Canal
Along the way, C&D Canal

There were many large logs in the C&D Canal
There were many large logs in the C&D Canal

Now in Delaware — the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal bridge (foreground) and the St. Georges bridge
Now in Delaware — the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal bridge (foreground) and the St. Georges bridge

LT at the Delaware City Marina
LT at the Delaware City Marina

A pleasant walk from the marina to Delaware City
A pleasant walk from the marina to Delaware City

For the first time, leaving Delaware City for Cape May via the Delaware Bay
For the first time, leaving Delaware City for Cape May via the Delaware Bay

Activity on the Delaware River
Activity on the Delaware River

Leaving for the second time that day, passing the power plant along the Delaware Bay
Leaving for the second time that day, passing the power plant along the Delaware Bay

Delaware Bay crossing (look out for pipes)
Delaware Bay crossing (look out for pipes)

From Delaware City, through the Delaware Bay, now in the Cape May channel
From Delaware City, through the Delaware Bay, now in the Cape May channel

Following us in channel to the Two Mile Landing Marina, Cape May NJ
Following us in channel to the Two Mile Landing Marina, Cape May NJ

Running on the inside; taking the NJICW from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Running on the inside; taking the NJICW from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Shallow waters as we ran on the inside, Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet (last miles of the ICW)
Shallow waters as we ran on the inside, Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet (last miles of the ICW)

Pretty tight, from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Pretty tight, from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Shallow waters, from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Shallow waters, from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Staying in the channel, from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Staying in the channel, from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet
Along the way from Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet

Made it to Hoffman’s Marina, Manasquan Inlet (friendly train activity all day, night)
Made it to Hoffman’s Marina, Manasquan Inlet (friendly train activity all day, night)

Hoffman’s Marina, Manasquan Inlet; foggy morning turns into “like glass” day on the outside
Hoffman’s Marina, Manasquan Inlet; foggy morning turns into “like glass” day on the outside

Hoffman’s Marina, Manasquan Inlet; fog is lifting
Hoffman’s Marina, Manasquan Inlet; fog is lifting

Leaving Manasquan Inlet for NYC, taking advantage of the “like glass” Atlantic Ocean conditions
Leaving Manasquan Inlet for NYC, taking advantage of the “like glass” Atlantic Ocean conditions

NJ shoreline
NJ shoreline

NJ shoreline
NJ shoreline

NJ shoreline
NJ shoreline

NJ shoreline
NJ shoreline
NJ shoreline
Passing Sandy Hook ancorage (on the west side, we are on the east side)
First sighting of NYC
Lower Bay, on way to Ellis Island Anchorage
Is that an anvil cloud we are heading towards?
The approach
Staten Island Ferry
Staten Island Ferry, closer
Beamy wave up…
Beamy wave down…
View of NYC skyline from the pilot house
Activity coming into NYC
Passing under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge
View of Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge from the pilot house
There’s the Statue of Liberty - pretty spectacular!
Pretty spectacular!
Pretty spectacular!
Pretty spectacular!
Still spectacular!
View from Ellis Island anchorage
Pretty spectacular!
Pretty spectacular!
Pretty spectacular!
Pretty spectacular!
Pretty spectacular!
Underway, next stop: Croton-on-Hudson
Making way..leaving NYC
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Along the way from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Tappen Zee Bridge, from NYC to Croton-on-Hudson
Going under the Tappen Zee Bridge
LT on the Hudson River, nearing Croton-on-Hudson
No longer in NYC
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Thanks to Natalie and Keaton for meeting us at Hasting-on-Hudson!
LT at Half Moon Bay Marina, Croton-on-Hudson, while we head to Michigan