Key West

We have been in Key West since January 19. After 3 days here, Rob extended our stay to 1 month. After 2 weeks, Rob extended our stay to 2 months. As much as I like it here, we do have to leave at some point. Our goal of finishing the loop being the major driver - hurricane season being another.

Life here is just plain pleasant. Roosters and hens with chicks are everywhere. The roosters crow all day long. I love it. The weather is not snowy, which I also love.

Our first few days in Key West were packed with tours because we thought we only had 1 week to see all the sights. Since deciding to stay longer, we have slowed our pace and are enjoying life here as we meet more people and learn about Key West’s rich history.

Below is a sample of what we’ve done and seen. Photos follow.

- Shipwreck Museum. An exhibit of the island’s early history of wreckers, and worthwhile for learning about how the wrecking industry allowed Key West to be one of the wealthiest US cities per capita in the 19th century. Some skepticism is offered over whether ships crashed on the coral reefs by themselves or if, sometimes, ships were falsely led with lights to reefs by wreckers. Probably both are true.

- Southernmost Point Buoy. Marks the lowest latitude of land in the contiguous US. We stood in line for 5 minutes or so to take our photo by this touristy landmark.

- Hemingway House. Occupied by Hemingway from 1931 to 1939, with his 2nd wife, Pauline. She lived there until her death in 1951, while he moved out and moved to Cuba (couple divorced in 1941). 6-toed cats sleeping around the property, and the pool Pauline converted from Ernest’s boxing ring were among my favorite things to see here. Rob liked the displays featuring Pilar, Ernest’s fishing boat.

- Speakeasy. Never having been to a speakeasy I wasn’t sure what to expect. The obvious sign to the door made it seem more like a common nightclub than a bar shrouded in secrecy. This did not keep me from enjoying an Old Fashioned.

- The Little White House. Originally housing for the Navy, President Truman spent 175 days of his presidency here. Thomas Edison, and Presidents Taft, Eisenhower, Kennedy, Carter, and Clinton have also stayed at this residence. We opted not to go on VIP White Glove tour from $645 that included a ride in one of the presidential limousines but have seen the limo as we walk around town. (Unfortunately, we have no photos of the house exterior. Recommend a google search.) Overall an excellent tour.

- Fort Zachary. Construction beginning in 1845 and was never completed due to hurricanes, yellow fever, etc. No hostile fire occurred here. During the Civil War, the Union used this strategic location to keep supply ships from reaching Confederate ports in the Gulf. Today it is a National Park where you can catch a tour of the Fort, or run/bike/walk on the trails, or visit the beach.

- Fort Jefferson AKA the Dry Tortugas. Named ‘Tortugas’ for sea turtles by Ponce de Leon. Later ‘Dry’ was added due to the lack of fresh water available on the island. Here the famous Dr. Mudd was imprisoned for his [alleged] roll in the assassination of President Lincoln (recommend “The Ordeal of Dr. Mudd” on Amazon Prime for $1.99).

You can get to the Dry Tortugas by ferry, seaplane or personal boat (~70 mile trip and must have a good 3-5 day weather window). We opted for the seaplane and were pleasantly surprised by the incredible views along the way: the island itself, ship wrecks, sharks, sea turtles, crab pots, and beautiful water.

There were a few boats anchored off the shore of the Dry Tortugas and a few campers. The last ferry of the day was setting sail as we arrived, leaving 20-30 people on the island. There were only a few ‘keep out’ signs but in general, the public is able to explore the fort in its current condition (i.e., no hand rails or fences) as you wish.

- Mel Fisher Museum. 5-stars. Mel followed his dream and after 16 years, finally found the treasure left by the Nuestra Senora de Atocha (‘Atocha’). Apparently he’d say every day: “Today is the day!” And one day it was. When the treasure was found, Spain and the State of Florida tried to claim (Florida rejected his willingness to give them 3X%). The Supreme Court ruled he could keep 100% of his findings and that his family were the only divers allowed to explore in that area of Florida waters. Fascinating story covered in the museum, including a history of Spanish trade in the Americas, the reason why the Atocha sank, how Mel and his family found the treasure, a bit about piracy, and a history of the slave trade. Too much to write but definitely worth looking into more.

- Lighthouse tour. 88 steps to fine views of Key West. Informative exhibits about the duties of a lighthouse keeper and the Principal Keepers, 3 of whom were women (after their husbands died they continued on, knowing how to perform the job).

- Nancy Forrester’s Secret Garden. This is on my list of favorite places. We received a personal tour from Nancy that was most informative. For 30 years Nancy has taken in parrots whose owners no longer want them. She kindly spent a few hours with us passing on her knowledge and expertise. Things I learned: 1) what you can teach a 7 year old, you can teach a parrot; 2) be careful what you teach a parrot—if you place an ‘educated’ parrot with a family that will not keep up with it’s education, the parrot will become discouraged/frustrated and can self-mutilate; 3) parrots care about the attention you give other parrots; 4) parrots are aware of you so respect them by greeting them with a hello, and leaving them with a goodbye; and 5) the more you teach a parrot the more it understands you but the less it will talk.

- Key West Art and History Museum where Flagler’s train was featured along with Guy Harvey’s illustrations of Hemingway’s ‘The old man and the sea.

We do our fair share of walking daily. In the mornings I enjoy browsing cafes, bakeries, and the endless number of small shops while Rob works. In the afternoons we walk around and see sights. Sometimes we eat in and sometimes we eat out, usually with our good friends we planned to meet here for a week…their stay also extended to a month after 3 days here. Nearly every restaurant and bar has live music. It’s a casual yet festive atmosphere.

As always, thank you for reading.

Fair winds,

Amy

A museum dedicated to the story of Wreckers and the beginning of Key West

A museum dedicated to the story of Wreckers and the beginning of Key West

Buoy at the Southernmost Point in the contigous United States

Buoy at the Southernmost Point in the contigous United States

Hemingway House, occupied by Hemingway in his 30s, from 1931-1939

Hemingway House, occupied by Hemingway in his 30s, from 1931-1939

Only first-class treatment for the 61 cats on the grounds at the Hemingway House (not all have 6 toes, this one does)

Only first-class treatment for the 61 cats on the grounds at the Hemingway House (not all have 6 toes, this one does)

Pauline’s pool that was once Ernest’s boxing ring

Pauline’s pool that was once Ernest’s boxing ring

Living room, Hemingway House

Living room, Hemingway House

Artifacts from Pilar

Artifacts from Pilar

Model of Pilar

Model of Pilar

Note written by Hemingway regarding Pilar

Note written by Hemingway regarding Pilar

Hallway, Hemingway House

Hallway, Hemingway House

Kitchen, Hemingway House

Kitchen, Hemingway House

Tiles in breezeway, Hemingway House

Tiles in breezeway, Hemingway House

Writing studio above carriage house, Hemingway House

Writing studio above carriage house, Hemingway House

View of lighthouse from Hemingway House

View of lighthouse from Hemingway House

A lounging 6-toed cat, Hemingway House

A lounging 6-toed cat, Hemingway House

Poolside cat, Hemingway House

Poolside cat, Hemingway House

Speakeasy: THIS WAY!

Speakeasy: THIS WAY!

Key West Cemetery: 2 witty and well-known plaques: ‘I told you I was sick,’ and ‘I am just resting my eyes.’

Key West Cemetery: 2 witty and well-known plaques: ‘I told you I was sick,’ and ‘I am just resting my eyes.’

Canons inside Ft Zachary Taylor (no hostile fire)

About Ft Tayor

About Ft Tayor

Iguana outside of Ft Taylor

Iguana outside of Ft Taylor

Moat outside of Ft Tayor, constructed by the Park Service, to give the impression of the Ft being surrounded by water, as it was when constructed

Moat outside of Ft Tayor, constructed by the Park Service, to give the impression of the Ft being surrounded by water, as it was when constructed

Seaplane to Dry Tortugas National Park

Seaplane to Dry Tortugas National Park

Snorklers (seen from plane)

Snorklers (seen from plane)

‘Look for sharks, stingrays, and sea turtles’-Pilot

‘Look for sharks, stingrays, and sea turtles’-Pilot

Coming in to the Dry Tortugas

Coming in to the Dry Tortugas

Rob’s very cool picture: Plane in mirror

Rob’s very cool picture: Plane in mirror

Daily 2 planes, 10 passengers each

Daily 2 planes, 10 passengers each

Fort Jefferson

Fort Jefferson

Interior of Fort Jefferson

Interior of Fort Jefferson

Touring Fort Jefferson…

Touring Fort Jefferson…

Quite populated at one time…

Quite populated at one time…

To Dr. Mudd’s cell

To Dr. Mudd’s cell

View from Dr. Mudd’s cell

View from Dr. Mudd’s cell

Stalagmites (growing up) and stalactites (growing down) on 2nd floor of Ft Jefferson

Rob walking on walkway around Ft Jefferson

Rob walking on walkway around Ft Jefferson

Anchor outside of moat, Ft Jefferson

Anchor outside of moat, Ft Jefferson

Lighthouse (and anchored boat), view from Ft Jefferson

Lighthouse (and anchored boat), view from Ft Jefferson

Sea turtle counts

Sea turtle counts

Walkway along the top of the Fort

Walkway along the top of the Fort

Canons long the top of the Fort

Canons long the top of the Fort

Portuguese man o’ war jellyfish are scattered along the beach

Portuguese man o’ war jellyfish are scattered along the beach

Hermit crabs are scattered along the beach and trails throughout park

Hermit crabs are scattered along the beach and trails throughout park

Beginning of the Little White House Tour - Presidential Limousine

Beginning of the Little White House Tour - Presidential Limousine

President Truman’s physician advised him to start the day with a shot of bourbon, followed by a glass of orange juice

President Truman’s physician advised him to start the day with a shot of bourbon, followed by a glass of orange juice

President Truman’s staff lived on the boat, and meals were cooked there and carried in

President Truman’s staff lived on the boat, and meals were cooked there and carried in

Sign on President Truman’s desk; the bit about Missouri is said to have kept him grounded (source: https://www.trumanlibrary.gov/education/trivia/buck-stops-here-sign)

Sign on President Truman’s desk; the bit about Missouri is said to have kept him grounded (source: https://www.trumanlibrary.gov/education/trivia/buck-stops-here-sign)

Magazine from Pres Truman’s day: More doctors smoke camels… :)

Magazine from Pres Truman’s day: More doctors smoke camels… :)

Highway 1, Mile 0

Highway 1, Mile 0

Mel Fisher Museum

Mel Fisher Museum

Adventure, during which his son, his son’s wife and a diver drowned when their boat sank (10 years later to the day they found the Atocha treasure)

Adventure, during which his son, his son’s wife and a diver drowned when their boat sank (10 years later to the day they found the Atocha treasure)

Silver coins in one of very few chests that survived 400 years underwater

Silver coins in one of very few chests that survived 400 years underwater

Finger bars, so called because the assayer drew with his finger a line in the sand and poured the molten gold in itld into the form

Finger bars, so called because the assayer drew with his finger a line in the sand and poured the molten gold in itld into the form

A papal bull recovered from the Atocha

A papal bull recovered from the Atocha

I liked the inclusion of ‘A shipwreck in Stormy Seas’ by Claude-joseph Vernet

I liked the inclusion of ‘A shipwreck in Stormy Seas’ by Claude-joseph Vernet

Howard Pyle’s illustrations of pirates influenced Johnny Depp’s costumes in Pirates of the Carribean. Letter from Van Gogh to his brother: ‘There are things that strike me dumb with admiration, including sketches [seen in Harper’s Monthly] of a Quaker town in the oldest days by Howard Pyle.’

Howard Pyle’s illustrations of pirates influenced Johnny Depp’s costumes in Pirates of the Carribean. Letter from Van Gogh to his brother: ‘There are things that strike me dumb with admiration, including sketches [seen in Harper’s Monthly] of a Quaker town in the oldest days by Howard Pyle.’

Lighthouse Museum

Lighthouse Museum

Rules for Lighthouse Keepers

Rules for Lighthouse Keepers

View from lighthouse

View from lighthouse

Mary Amanda Carroll was Barbara’s granddaughter!

Mary Amanda Carroll was Barbara’s granddaughter!

One of my favorite things about Key West: Roosters everywhere, crowing at all hours of the day

One of my favorite things about Key West: Roosters everywhere, crowing at all hours of the day

Roosters…and hens and chicks. Everywhere. Never gets old.

Roosters…and hens and chicks. Everywhere. Never gets old.

Alfredo, perched atop the roof at Blue Heaven, a favorite restaurant

Alfredo, perched atop the roof at Blue Heaven, a favorite restaurant

Nancy Forrester’s Secret Garden Parrot Sanctuary

Nancy Forrester’s Secret Garden Parrot Sanctuary

Nancy, with Mr. Peaches, a cockatiel, educating us on parrots and cockatiels - fascinating!

Nancy, with Mr. Peaches, a cockatiel, educating us on parrots and cockatiels - fascinating!

Each bird has a profile (this is Pierre’s profile)

Each bird has a profile (this is Pierre’s profile)

This is Pierre, he said ‘hello’ in a Garmin-style voice

This is Pierre, he said ‘hello’ in a Garmin-style voice

Lucy’s profile

Lucy’s profile

This is Lucy

This is Lucy

A gorgous parrot…(I forgot his name :/ )

A gorgous parrot…(I forgot his name :/ )

Amazing!

Amazing!

Nancy demonstrating how Mr. Peaches can play the piano app on her iPhone (but he does not have to!)

Nancy demonstrating how Mr. Peaches can play the piano app on her iPhone (but he does not have to!)

Holding Mr. Peaches

Holding Mr. Peaches

Restored schooner built for General Patton, at Perry Marina, Stock Island: the When and If (WHEN I return from the war, and IF I survive)

Restored schooner built for General Patton, at Perry Marina, Stock Island: the When and If (WHEN I return from the war, and IF I survive)

Lemon-keylime pie at the Blue Heaven restaurant

Lemon-keylime pie at the Blue Heaven restaurant

Pelicans at our marina

Pelicans at our marina

View from our boat

View from our boat

A morning walk

A morning walk

Mackers resting comfortably — I miss our Mackers!

Mackers resting comfortably — I miss our Mackers!